CASCADE OFFROADERS - Twin-stick NP205

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Dec 27, 2009, 9:10pm

CASCADE OFFROADERS :: General Discussion :: Classifieds :: Twin-stick NP205

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Topic: Twin-stick NP205 (Read 353 times)

biglou
Lug Nut

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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 13

Twin-stick NP205
« Thread Started on May 8, 2006, 7:35pm »

If anybody out there wants there 205 twin sticked, I can help. it needs partially disassembled and the "range" shift rail needs ground on.

I love it......two wheel low....front wheel only...etc., great for lots of manueverability in tight and even hairy spots.

contact me with questions reguarding that mod.

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v8and38s
Lug Nut

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Joined: Feb 2007
Gender: Male

Posts: 1

Re: Twin-stick NP205
« Reply #1 on Feb 26, 2007, 5:08pm »

i already have twin stick but have not modified my shift rails and need help or info on where and how much to grind thanks

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biglou
Lug Nut

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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 13

Re: Twin-stick NP205
« Reply #2 on Mar 2, 2007, 7:59am »

First, remove the case and PTO cover to drain oil. I usually hose it down with some carb cleaner or something just for GP. reomove the detent spring on the range rail (the rail closest to the input) and it should slide easily.
On top of the case about an inch in front the front is a little hole that is most likely fill with grime, but in it there is a little soft plug. Once you clean it out you can use a punch and drive the little (1/4" or so) right out the bottom of the hole, then retrieve it through the PTO cover. You'll then see the top of the fork and the 3/16" roll pin holding it to the rail. Usa a small punch and drive it out throught the bottlom and retrieve it. Pull the punch out just enough to. Once you get the rail out, push the small punch back in to retain the shift rail location slide the rail out of the shift fork, and the rail is in your hands ready to modify.
It takes a little bit to get the shift rail out, but once you do, you can see where the interlock rods are hitting it by small dent narks, and you need to clearance it that far....or you can think of it like this; in nuetral (center position) the detent holds it in one spot.....so push in the rail (low) and measure the stroke distance, (seems like about 3/8") and that how far you need to grind. There are two notches in the rail, one has a more gradual ramp and one has a steep stop. You need to mimick those features and recreate them, just lake them a little longer on the rail.
Once that's done, slide the rail back into the fork and with finess and patience, put the roll pin back in through the shift firk and through the rail. You usually drop in many times and use a magnet to retirieve it. Once ou get the roll pin in, test it. I usually pull out the front rail detent or atleast back it out a little to soften it. This shoud let you put the case in front or rear only, high or low, and not so that it can go into tow diferent ranges. if that happens, you over-ground it, and you live with it and be carel with the shifting, or you find another shift rail. I bet you may have some luck with welding it, but I doubt it. IMO, getting a twin-stick shifter installed and work is the hard part.
good luck
LOU

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